Gili Gede to Gili Trawangan

Time: 1000 – 1500 | Engine hrs: 2213.7 – 2218.6 | Alternator on | 2,500 RPM

En route to Gili experienced maximum of 1 kt of current against us. Saw a sail fix surface near the boat, and took some video of the boat gliding over the sea floor in 10m of extremely clear water. Arrival in Gili was uneventful – ample mooring buoys and flat water, despite reasonable currents. We just grabbed the first buoy we saw, assuming these are free and public until we hear otherwise. We really need to get water as we are fully out at this point.

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Nusa Lembongan to Gili Gede (Lombok)

Time: 0700 – 1430 | Engine hrs: 2206.0 – 2213.7 | Alternator working | 2,500 RPM | Dead calm seas w/ 5 kts of wind. Swell from SE approaching Lombok.

Threw out all of the lentils etc. that came from TS Guruswamy in Port Blair, as this seemed to be the source of the bugs we’ve been seeing in massive quantities. Hoisted the dinghy for the first time in over a month – the bottom was very fouled.

Currents were against us for most of the way across Nusa Penida. Pancakes for breakfast. As we entered the start of Lombok Strait, current reduced to 0-1kt. We stopped off at Desert Point surf break and anchored to the south of it in 20m. Wave looked too gnarly for us to surf. No easy dinghy access to shore. There were a few buildings set up along the beach opposite the break. Had a delicious tuna fish and pasta dish for lunch, then pulled anchor and headed around the point to Gili Gede. Easy cruise in with no surprise reefs. Chart seems off – actual position is a decent bit north of chart position. Anchored in bay on W side of Gede in 20m. Fringing reef is marked by bamboo stakes and comes up suddenly. Dinghy to shore to get cigarettes for Payal. We were a spectacle, with women and children following us everywhere and openly staring. More muslim and conservative than Bali. Payals see through wrap went over well, as did her braided hair. Had some Kopi Lombok at a toko on the east coast of the island – a short walk via footpath from the bay where we anchored. Really charming small town island. Took lots of photos. Quick dinghy around showed mooring buoy on SW side by nice dock, presumably for visitors to small resort on SW side, just south of our anchorage. Scrubbed deck and installed the new zinc anode that Ben brought us after hacksawing an appropriate length of bolt off our meter long M10 bar from Langkawi (used to secure anchor windlass reinforcement). Ran out of water, and only managed to get 20L on shore (they were out too). Beautiful area with many small islands.

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Bali Serangan to Nusa Lembongan

Time: 9/5 1145 -1500 | Engine hrs: ?? | 2,400 RPM

9/5: V-belt was burning before we got out of Serangan harbour. Prop still missing its zinc from the last time we made this trip in early April. Ben, Payal, and Janna on board. Turned off the alternator and the belt help up ok to Lembongan. Picked up the same buoy we had used when my parents were in town. Made a Massaman curry for dinner after Payal made potato and onion grilled sandwiches for lunch. Short surf session at Playgrounds on the first day.

10/5: Longer surf session (Adam alone) while Payal and Ben toured the island on what was apparently a terrifying motorbike journey. At the end, realized my surfboard was filled with water from several nicks in the fiberglass that I had neglected to repair straight away. Ian dropped Janna at the 3:30 fast ferry to Sanur – 250K rp ticket price. Sleeping on deck apparently gets you all wet with dew. No real dinner after late pasta lunch, just snacking.

11/5: Woke up, fixed the V-belt (put on an A42 instead of an A41, which we failed to fit without undoing more bolts, many of which were odd sizes or already stripped). Also noticed that we are leaking a small amount of diesel into the bilge. Tightened the bleed nipple, but suspect the problem is because the secondary fuel filter has not been adequately tightened. Didn’t want to take off the fuel line to get our bike chain style filter wrench around the secondary filter housing, we we’ve left it for now. Once again, thank goodness diesel is not flammable. Snorkeling trip picked us up and we went to Mangroves, Wall Bay, and Gamat Bay. We also convinced the driver to take us to the site of our brutal drift dive on the western side of the strait across from Wall Bay. Visibility was cloudier, but not as many jellyfish. Still current, but nothing like our dive. Snorkeling trip cost us 500K rp for the boat for 3 hours (4 people). Retrived my board from the surfboard repair guy at Coconut Beach – ouch a whopping 300K to fix it and it wasn’t a very good job. Went surfing with Ian in strong currents. Collided with an aggro aussie dude on one wave. Green curry for dinner after chicken fingers in the late afternoon. 1 more Jersey Shore episode. Not sure if I can stand another.

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Karimunjawa to Bali Benoa

Time: 28/3 14:26 – 31/3 0956 | Engine hrs: ?? | Jakarta to Bali days 3-5

Squall hit with 23 kts of apparent wind (max), dead downwind w/ jib winged out to starboard and a preventer on the boom. Boat handled conditions well. Took in 50% of the sail area and still made 7.5 kts through the water at times, 8.5 kts over the ground given 1 kt of easterly current helping us on to Bali.

Several days of excellent downwind sailing in large swell before we had to turn the corner toward the Bali Strait, where the wind ran out and we were forced to start motoring. After threading lots of ferries plying the narrowest part of the Bali Strait, about a mile across, we ran into a huge trash flow and fouled the prop repeatedly. Eventually decided we could not motor, and bobbed around going 1-2kts until daylight as there was almost no wind. Wind picked up just before dawn and we sailed all the way down to Uluwatu before turning the motor back on and heading up into Bali Benoa Harbour.

Immigration was painless and bribe free. Bali International Marina is not as grand as the name sounds – actually pretty crap – but at least we could put the boat to rest. Bali at last.

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Jakarta (Batavia) to Karimunjawa

Time: 1600 – 28/3 2400 | Engine hrs: ?? | Jakarta to Bali Days 1-2

Reached Karimunjawa at 1100 on 28/3 in very strong winds and swell. We were motoring so we had no trouble. Anchored in the harbour, well sheltered by an island in its mount, but wind continued to blow hard (12-20 kts +). 2 kts of current against us as we dropped anchor in 20m.

Went ashore and bought 60L of diesel at 5,100 rp / L. At some lunch at a local Rumah Makan and then went back to the boat. We had fast-ish internet when tethered, so we ordered a replacement fluxgate compass online from Raymarine as our existing compass is way off and causing the autohelm to “wander.”

Skipped the shark diving and resorts in order to get to Bali faster.

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Krakatau to Pantai Mutiara Marina, Jakarta

Time: 1700 – 0900 | Engine hrs: 2124.0 – 2135.0 | No alternator | 2,500 RPM

Took surfboards ashore to Anak Krakatoa with a dry bag for the (not waterproof) camera. Avoided sign saying you need a guide and went through the forest to the left. Came out on first hill of ash and black sand. Up past small guard hut and then down to sulfur fumoroles at base of cone. Around to left to be on windward side and avoid toxic fumes. Very steep up and sand hot near summit fumoroles. Walked to caldera lip. Fast back down, explored lava field, then beach to back to the boat where lots of fisherman had anchored all around us (quite close). Raining on and off the whole time. Wait a bit for the hard rain to pass, but finally go anyway. Motor out to the north, then head toward P. Sanglang, leaving it to port. Night falls and we enter heavy ship traffic going across to Sumatra. Currents in our favor up to 2.8 kts. Wind above 20 kts. No one seems to obey what side of the channel to be on. After rounding Surabaya power station, cut the corner out of the shipping lane to head directly for Pulau Tidung and outer channel. No boats until then, but then lots of big ships! Again, don’t seem to adhere to opposite of red right returning (IALA A). Boats are entering on the left side instead of the right. Head hard north to get to the left side of the channel after near miss with a tanker. Wish our starboard nav light was working. Wind comes with the morning and we approach Jakarta. Covered in haze. Fishing boats everywhere and lots of big bags of trash floating around in the water. Cannot reach Batavia or Pantai Mutiara Marina on the VHF or cell phone, so we decide to go with Pantai, as it is in the SE Asia cruising guide. No one on the radio, no one to direct us in, finally someone notices us lingering and points us to the last berth that isn’t crumbling or sunk. Here at last.

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Benkulu to Krakatau

Time start: 1700 | Time finish: 16/3 1300 | Engine hrs: 2091.0 – 2124.0 | No alternator | 2,500 RPM

Coastal cruise from Benkulu down. Near miss with a tug pulling a giant barge, which only had dim flashing red light. Adam sailed nice and close past a cheering fishing boat as well. It rained a lot, on and off, but no major squalls like in the Mentawais. Generally uneventful motoring with intervals of sailing. No cell reception for most of it. Raining on approach to Krakatau. Old Krakatoa on starboard, Anak Krakatoa on port. Deep until you curve around to southeast side, where a very calm, wide black sand beach awaits your dinghy and 18m contour awaits your anchor. We anchor close enough to swim in, but take the surfboards. Climb to the top of the cone. Very cool experience.

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West Coast Sipora to Bengkulu, Sumatra

Date: 13 March 2011 | Time Start: 0000 Finish: 14 March 2011 1200 | From: West Coast Sipora To: Bengkulu, Sumatra| Eng Hrs Start: 2060.5 Finish: 2091.0 | Avg RPMs: 2500 | Weather/Seas: 1m+ swell, rainy, some squalls

A squall or two and some decent swell (1-2m) all the way down the Mentawis. Engine stayed cool most of the way, right at 150 deg F. One time, when coolant overflowed and we did not manually return coolant to header tank, we restarted her after a refuel and temp quickly went to just below 180 deg F. Shut her down, refilled coolant, then no problems. So the engine is staying cool but coolant is not returning to the header tank after expanding.

Also, oil leaks are slowly getting worse, but still manageable. Come into Bengkulu and decide to just anchor at the point near the fort and dinghy ashore rather than go 15 nm south to the port. Anchor in some decent swell just behind the breakers and load up jerry cans. Shore is protected by breakers all the way north until you finally can slip in where you see the fishing boats anchored just east of the point. Exciting dinghy landing on small bit of sand. Go in and try to fill cans at Pertamina, but they cannot sell in quantity. National law. Get some daging at a nice Padang-style restaurant, check out the old British fort, then find some guy with a stall who agrees to get our diesel for us for 5,500 rupiah (1,000 more than at pump). Runs off on two motorbikes and comes back quickly with over 100L of diesel. Local boys help us push back our dinghy and we get soaked going back. Someone had stolen our sunscreen but not outboard motor. Ha!

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Teluk Dalam to Teluk Lagundri, Nias

Date: 3 March 2011 | Time Start: 1000 Finish: 1130 | From: Teluk Dalam, Nias To: Teluk Lagundri, Nias| Eng Hrs Start: 2016.8 Finish: 2018.3 | Avg RPMs: 2500 | Weather/Seas: Sunny day, easy swell

Uneventful. Took dad on first sail/motor around to Teluk Lagundri and the surf break. Motored around, avoiding rock on chart at entrance to Lagundri, which was not visible. Charts off. Unsure of what offset should be. Temperature quickly went up to 180 deg F. Did not check oil/coolant before setting off. Anchored in close to light, and went surfing immediately. Great right hand break. Decided to worry about non-functioning alternator and hot engine later.

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Sibolga to Teluk Dalam, Nias

Date: 28 February 2011 | Time Start: 1445 Finish: 0657 (1/03/2011) | From: Sibolga To: Teluk Dalam, Nias| Eng Hrs Start: 2000.7 Finish: 2016.8 | Avg RPMs: 2500-2300 | Weather/Seas: Rain storm last night. Cloudy and warm for passage. Calm seas, no wind entire way

Went to harbourmaster to check out. he took a long time again, typed out clearance, got everything neat and ready, then before handing over talked about a 100k Rupiah coast for administration, another for typing, and then something extra for him. We asked to see the document of prices (like the one for cargo ships) and he said there was none and no receipts given. So we clarified it was a gift and we would not have to pay, since our CAIT included Sibolga. Finally said we’d give 50k, he said 100k, w ouldn’t budge. Called a guy who spoke English. Beng Beng, guy who had “helped” us before and is a “local agent” called us and we ignored him. Guy gudgingly took the money and gave the clearance. Diesel and water sorted. New regulator installed. Motored out. Alternator working, but shuts off after a few hours, though light says it is in float cycle. Temperature gradually rose to 180 deg F and temporarily went a touch over. Oil pressure 40 psi and occasionally over. Took RPM back to 2300 early in the morning – temporary drop in temp but came back up and steady at 180 deg F. No wind – motored all the way. Lots of squid boats as no moon. Came into Teluk Dalam, anchored, and went to sleep, after calling harbour master and getting no reply. Coast Guard met our dinghy on north side of pier, took our original documents, and said to come back tomorrow for clearance. Next day, had to go to “new office” on west side of bay. They kept the documents until we checked out.

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