Long Island to Havelock #1 via Baratang

13 Jan 2011 | Start: 0830, finish: 1730 | Eng hrs: 1844.0 – 1851.3 | Avg RPM: 2,400 | Conditions: Calm, sunny, 1m swell once we reached open water

Started at low tide to reach mouth of Homfray Strait with 0.5-1.0m of tide underneath us. Plan to circumnavigate Baratang Island via Homfray Strait, connecting to Andaman Strait. No concern re: shelf at the entrance, as we never saw less than 6m on the depth gauge. Rest of straits were very deep (~15m+) with the exception of the power lines area, which was 5-6m deep on the south side near the ferry jetty, which is exactly where the high tension power lines are at their highest (away from the sagging middle). The pilotage states that “power lines limiting mast height to 25m were removed in 2006.” Well, they’re back, and I don’t think 25m would clear. Difficult to see from our perspective, but we are 15m and it looked pretty damn close as we were going under. Tide was still rising and current was flowing eastward (against us) so we had no trouble slowing to a crawl as we approached the lines. Some men on a nearby ferry started shouting at us as we got near the lines, which prompted a momentary panic given their superior perspective, but they eventually calmed down and then beckoned us through.

Stopped at a village that exists where the highway cuts across [ ] via 2 car ferries, one of which interrogated us on channel 16 – it’s cool man, we aren’t going to anchor right in the ferry channel. Dinghy ashore to get some rice and thali – we jump at any chance not to burn our LPG, eat our cooking, and then do the dishes. Which is not to say that our cooking isn’t delicious… No chapatti, roti, paratha, or naan available – just rice. Police asked for our restricted area permit, which was on the boat – they were satisfied that we knew where we were, and were merely hungry, so they left us along. On the way out of the straits, we passed a “mangrove cave,” which we were supposed to obtain a ticket to back in the village. Nobody knew anything about it there, and it looked underwhelming as we passed it, so we skipped it. So I still don’t know what a mangrove cave is.

Trailed the dinghy all the way to Laccam Harbour, through moderate swell, with my camera sitting in the beer holder. Sailed most of the crossing to Laccam after motoring the entire circumnavigation of Baratang. Almost cleared the Laccam point lighthouse without tacking (lazy) but the wind finally gave out at the crucial moment, and before we knew it we were in uncharted shoals of ~3.5m (up from 30m a few seconds earlier). I knew I was cutting it close, got lucky. Anchored at usual spot, then ashore for hamburgers at B3 in #1, and a quick Internet check at #3 along with provisions (eggs, Nutella, and more namkeen). Short sleep before passage to Barren begins at 3am.

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Lazy Day at Long Island

12 Jan 2011 | Conditions: Calm and sunny

Slowed down, put off circumnavigation of Baratang for tomorrow morning. Took dinghy down and went ashore near where the new jetty was being constructed, with iron and concrete pylons being hand-poured. Same design as the in-process jetty at Havelock #1. Walked through charming, strange village. Lots of British style station houses with broad porches, constructed of roughly hewn local boards. Entire village of children, all ages, were in a field practicing dances and marches for upcoming Republic Day celebrations. Only BSNL SIM cards work here. No cooked food to be had, but we did convince a girl to fry us 8 samosas and some chai. Bought potatoes, onions, eggplant, chillies, garlic, but forgot eggs. Not much protein in the diet. Saw signs informing us that Long Island requires a special permit from the dreaded Forestry Division – oops. No one hassled us. Very isolated and picturesque, yet completely electrified by a diesel generation plan, and connected via BSNL.

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Port Blair to Long Island

11 Jan 2011 | Start: 0800, finish 1600 | Eng hrs: 1835.8 – 1844.0 | Avg RPM: 2,500 | Conditions: Flat, glassy seas, minimal wind from strange angles, heavy clouds on the horizon

Uneventful departure from Port Blair. Seized the rigging with stainless steel wire, and added a jerry can of diesel before hoisting the dinghy and raising anchor. Bizarrely calm conditions, forced to motor all the way to the west side of Long Island. Engine sound seems better, but vibrations may have increased, especially standing near the mast. May also be simple paranoia. We found a line of black soot on the transom (where it sits partially submerged when we are motoring, but fully out of the water when sailing). Short, mild squall just as we passed between Long Island and Guitar Island. Guitar Island is covered in amazing original growth rainforest – incredibly tall trees everywhere. After the rain, a rainbow arched over Long Island, with both ends clearly visible. Anchored in 6.5m in the lee of Long Island, glassy flat anchorage.

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Rutland South Bay to Port Blair

05 Jan 2011 | Start: 0800, finish: 14:00 | Eng hrs: 1830.9 – 1835.8 | Avg RPM: 2,400

Motor sailed, partially to reach Port Blair sooner, and partially to charge the batteries which had somehow fallen to 12.3V. Swell large and confused coming around the point at Rutland, but moderated once we reached deeper water. Still, some large waves make it over the rails, soaking us in the cockpit when we least expect it. Made it into Port Blair with very little water, fuel, or provisions – time to restock and reconnect, as we have been without reception or Internet for some time now.

In Port Blair, ate lots of good (non-veg) curry and picked up some supplies:

  • A Q flag and an Indonesian flag – hand sewn for us from yellow, red, and white synthetic cloth purchased down the street at a total cost of 80 rupees
  • 2x20L water jugs, bringing total external water capacity to 80L, and total capacity to 530L. Ian and I use ~140L / week, and that’s with minimal showering (who is surprised?)
  • 2x throw pillows, to replace one that stuck to my sweaty back for a second, and then fell, bouncing overboard and rapidly receding into the Andaman Sea
  • Bajaj 220V fan for the galley to use with our new 220V outlets and the inverter
  • Food, diesel, petrol, water (Bisleris). We seem to be one of the only boats that doesn’t make a distinction between tank water (for washing) and drinking water, perhaps because we have a PUR filter. It might take donkeys years to fill our water bottles with the terrible pressure trickle that comes out of it, but we still think of it as a nice safety / survival feature to have so much drinking water.

CAIT is on track for next week according to our agent, Richard Lofthouse at Asia Pacific Superyachts.

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Chiryatapu to Rutland South Bay

Date: 04/01/2011 | Time Start: 0900 | Time Finish: 1130 | Engine Hrs Start: 1830.0 | Engine Hrs Finish: 1830.9 | Weather Conditions: blustery w/ 13-18 kts NE, large swell 2-3m

In the morning, Payal made parathas with Bombay Duck pickle – delicious! Had a swim and scrubbed some of the scuffs off the hull – one blue mark and the tire marks seem pretty tenacious. Decided not to fill the water tanks here given difficult dinghy landing and it will take hours and multiple trips with 40 L each trip and 500 L to fill. Added the water we got last night to the tanks after treating with bleach (1:5200). got underway, plenty of wind on the beam to a bit aft depending on bearing so we sailed. Engine began spitting black smoke at 2500 RPM (but not below that) so there is still something wrong, perhaps we need to tighten/loosen the injection pump or injectors. Arrived at Rutland with no shelter in sight – more nonstop rolling. Swam ashore, didn’t see any marine life – sandy bottom – walked along beautiful white sand beach, turtle tracks and eggs, met some Indian guys hanging out looking for Burmese refugees. Showed us a river where 2 guys were fishing. Lots of dead trees around, and apparently crocodiles (we didn’t see any though). Back to the boat, made a Penang curry w/ veggies for lunch and a coconut chicken curry for dinner – both delicious. Getting more down by nonstop rocking, mystery insect bites, shortage of water, etc. Batteries are strange, dropping to 12.1-12.3 V while monitor reads full, as if some amps are being drained but not picked up by Mastervolt.

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Neill Island to Chiryatapu

Time start: 0000, Time finish: 0700 | Engine hrs start: 1825.5, finish 1830.0. Avg RPM 2.5K. Conditions: Rough weather, squall with 28 kt gusts and rain, large 3m+ swell

Weighed anchor without putting another jerry can into the tank. Lucky on the anchor as it came off the bombies without a hitch. Motored with the wind directly astern until 3am in large seas. Pitch black with no moon, so difficult to see, but probably 3m+. Because we forgot at midnight, need to get a jerry can into the tank, so need to sail for a bit to turn the engine off. Lots of wind, but manageable on a run. Waves are the issue, however, as we were tossed into an accidental gybe (with wind at 120 degrees) by a big wave almost immediately after getting sails out. No damage, but things got a bit hairy at this point.

Waves would pull us higher and apparent wind would spike up to 26kts, despite best attempts hand steering (the autopilot couldn’t cope at all). Engine craps out. Loss of power (very noticeable change in sound) at 2,500 RPM, and I put her in neutral almost immediately assuming a badly fouled prop. She died in neutral eventually and the oil pressure light came on (as the key had not been switched off). Reefed down heavily (a bit late) and changed destination to Chiryatapu instead of Rutland so we could diagnose the prop / engine issue sooner, and it looks more sheltered from the NE.

Arrived around 7am and dropped anchor in 15m, not an ideal spot. Cleaned up the cabin (dishes had splattered everywhere), then took a look at engine. Nothing on the prop, but when she started, hard to idle and eventually died on her own. Pumped 56L of diesel in before trying, so not an empty tank issue. Perhaps air in the fuel lines from low fuel levels in turbulent seas while the engine was running? Tried to bleed the lines with the manual lift pump. Bled the first nipple, and there was air – encouraging. 2nd bleed nipple was seized so we had to skip it. Finally bled where the injectors meet the cylinders – no obvious air coming out as we cranked the engine. Then she started, but with a strange, uneven idle. Sound is also different on higher revs, as if the timing has changed, but don’t think we would have affected that.

Replaced bolts holding guide hook on windlass – chain was jumping badly as it fed into the gypsy, especially with 40+ meters out. Much tighter, and better performance so far. Tuned the rigging. Port baby stay was extremely loose – the new one. Need to seize these turnbuckles with stainless steel wire ASAP as they appear to be unscrewing themselves somehow. Rig is much tighter now.

Moved the boat to Chiryatapu village – anchored in closer but still no relief from rolling. Sriram’s father cooked us potatoes, bananas, and lentils for dinner. Taxi to nearest reasonable village, bought a whole chicken (1.6kg before butchering, 1.0kg after, we pay for the before weight). Picked up 2x20L jerry cans for filling drinking water – we are almost out. Were spoiled in Thailand. Rough dinghy launch – we found her smashing against the sea wall at high tide, and we were loaded with provisions. Back to the boat safe – didn’t even break an egg.

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Fishing and snorkeling at Neill Island

02 Jan 2011 – remain at Neil Island. Eng hours: 1825.5. Beautiful sunny weather, no swell in the lee of Neil.

Relaxed day at Neill Island, nice beach with stone arches, but pretty brutal walk/swim across shallow, drying, jagged coral to reach the shore. Saw school of large fish with something like a rhino horn – very ugly. Were eating stuff off the coral at the bottom. Ian snorkeled to the northern sandy beach and found tourists. Payal and I went south past two rock arches to a wide, shallow bay. Met fishermen along the way who use crabs as bait. Payal started watching Tropic Thunder, but got distracted by our new success in fishing. We decided to use soya balls which were not the most delicious for eating, but the fish seemed to like them ok. Water so clear you can see the fish milling around the line. Need sinkers. Black reef fish were very effective at taking the bait but not the big hook. Caught three small red/orange reef fish, perhaps 6-in long, not great eating. Made moong dal and marinated fish for dinner. Decided to do the long passage to Rutland South Bay at night as a night sailing experience for Payal. Adam and Payal to take midnight to 4am, Ian on 4am to 8am.

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Havelock #7 to Neill Island

01 Jan 2011 | Start: 15:30, Finish: 17:30 | Cruise from: Havelock #7 to Neill Island | Engine hours 1825.0 – 1825.5. Avg RPM: 2,000. Very calm seas until channel between Neill and Havelock. Good 13-18kt winds on the beam.

Uneventful sail to Neil Island, spent morning recovering from NYE. Had an Indian guy swim to our boat and come aboard – Ian quickly shoo’d him away. Anchoring in 6m means close enough to swim from Havelock #7 beach. Motored out of the anchorage, but sails up immediately upon leaving the bay and all the way to Neill. Arrived at dusk, with a catamaran and a stinkboat already anchored, making it the most crowded anchorage to date. Dropped in 9.5m w/ some clanging on the chain, found we had wrapped a small bombie in the morning. Ate soya curry and watched Goodbye Lenin. Movie was nice; soya, less so.

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John Lawrence to Havelock #7 via Laccam Harbour

31 Dec 2011 | Start 07:00, finish 18:00 | Cruise from: John Lawrence to Havelock #7 via Laccam Harbour | Eng hours start: 1821.7, finish 1825.0 | Conditions: calm and beautiful

Motor sailed straight to Laccam Harbour (Havelock #1) and anchored. Plan is to go ashore and stay at a hotel for the night. New Year’s Eve festivities are at No. 7 w/ buses every hour to No. 3. Anchored west of our prior spot to get away from coral bombies that the chain was wrapped around before. Spent a few hours installing switch for inverter., then dinghy ashore w/ cylinders to Barefoot Scuba. Filled tanks quickly as they fill their own in the afternoon – 300 rps / tank. They and most of their neighboring resorts were full with holiday tourists – for some reason we were surprised. One place had a room for 4,000 rps but just didn’t seem worth it. Meal at Barefoot (Café del Mar) then Internet at #3 to check on status of CAIT. Resupply on food, and grabbed an Indian courtesy flag, then back to boat to motor over to #7 anchorage for the party. Easy motor in the dark with good nav beacons (albeit uncharted) all the way out. Anchored very close to shore as there is a nice gradual sand slope. Took a nap @ 20:00 but woke up after 23:00. New Year’s on boat as fireworks are shot from another boat nearby. DJ Teddy Boy Kill playing at party on the beach. Went home at 5am – maybe 100 people at the party?

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Outram Island to North Button Island

29 Dec 2011 | Start: 11:00, finish 18:00 | Eng hrs: 1815.1 – 1818.1 | Avg RPM: 2,500 | Conditions: Reasonable seas >1m, 10-15 kts wind

Woke up at Outram, early morning swim and snorkel – decent with good fish, but coral seems to be in bad shape, especially in shallower water. Tried fishing with the cast and reel lure – no dice. Also tried trolling in the dinghy to no avail, though we did manage to get the lure stuck on coral several times. Ian and I went surfing at the shallow white water reef breaks to the southeast of our anchorage. Anchored the dinghy around a coral bombie using our improved dinghy anchor. Waist deep water on sharp coral was a little nerve wracking – got a few short rides each but wave power was minimal. Only a few coral cuts. Back on the boat, Payal made aloo w/ capsicum & onions, and parathas to go along, very tasty. Motored ~5nm to South Button Island. Good fish, again coral hurting a bit, but looked better deeper. Little volcanic island cut in half by a small channel with a mangrove smack in the middle. Climbed the rocks, crab carcasses left by the birds of prey. Could be good diving here, as there is a large wall – we should come back. Back on board, motorsailed to Middle Button, and then North Button looking for a night anchorage. No shelter to be had, very rolly at night. Anchored in 10m at the edge of the reef. Ate some quick pasta and went to sleep.

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